Last updated: 8/19/05
Time Warp:
Takeover:
The color photo from the RHPS Book is a MIRROR IMAGE.
{For a good photo, click
here. Also check out the April 2005 Mick Rock calendar for a nice side view with a good view of the anklet/boots.}
A few notes on material:
Gene Chiovari swears by pressed lamé, where the metal is actually pressed onto the backing material. It makes me acutely nervous; I prefer tissue lamé, where the metallic threads are woven into the material.
Lamé has a limited lifetime: my tissue lamé suit looked pretty good for about seven years, and I wasn't performing regularly for one of them. Eventually, the metal will wear off and you'll either have to appliqué new lamé over it (Bruce Cutter did this to his suit; it still looks great), or you'll have to make a new suit.
Many people today use gold vinyl. This is probably closer than lamé to whatever the heck Sue Blane used, but it doesn't have as pretty a gold glint in my opinion. It is probably more durable. We'll see how today's suits look in about 8 years.
Saffron Shearer-Gare, whose costumes pretty much set the gold standard for costuming, hand quilts her suits. I hand quilted mine, and found that machine quilting looks better to me. Hand quilting just permitted the fabric to move around too much, which made the pattern difficult to see, and also meant that some of the straight lines moved and had to be re-sewn. I'm presuming your sewing ability is closer to mine than to Saffron's, so I recommend machine quilting. (It is also much, much faster.)
The entire suit should be reinforced with a layer of batting or
foam or the quilting won't puff up properly. Gene Chiovari recommends 1/4" foam; Jaimie Froemming (the retired Berkeley costume mistress) says to use 1/4 oz. batting to give it body. The skirt pieces especially are visibly somewhat stiff.
Full costume includes:
Magenta's and Riff's suits are the same size; that's why hers is mid-thigh while his barely covers his underwear.
The front and the back are each one piece with a scoop neckline. The front is shaped like a cross; the back is basically a vertical rectangle. The skirt piece flares a little bit, making it slightly trapezoidal. The suits fasten (front piece over back piece) at the neckline with a gold rivet-style snap on each side of the neck, and at the sides with 2 snaps placed vertically on each side where the front crossbar piece comes over the back (front and back overlap about 2"). For weekly use, I use nonfunctional snaps and a hidden Velcro fastening.
Use wooden beads from a craft store or ping-pong balls for the balls on the end of the tubes. Styrofoam balls are hard to paint and most glues melt them. Gun can be modified from a devil's pitchfork (use hot nails to hold it together--plastic glues badly) or be made of wood or metal. You can attach a box that makes electronic zapping noises, but no one will hear it. Some people put laser pointers in the tines. Red LED's at the end of each tine also look great when wired correctly. The best-looking gun I've seen that didn't require welding was made by Scott Matheus. It's plastic--he sanded it, coated it with red primer (a trick he from a public TV program on gilding), then applied two coats each of gold spraypaint and clear shellac. The problem with plastic is that eventually someone will step on it and break it (someone did).
The glove sleeves extend in a point over the back of the hands. The sleeves are made of shiny vinyl and will need to be reinforced to hold their shape. Try bridal stiffener or TimTex (a kind of stiff paper sold by the yard at fabric stores - TimTex is used for things like wide-brimmed garden hats or fabric bowls), buckram (a type of stiff cloth), or thin quilt batting.
Quilted Spacesuit Patterns: (Sorry, no pics yet.)
All "left" and "right" directions are from the character's point of view.