Return to the Costume List
SOMEWHAT ANAL MAKEUP TIPS

This is much less detailed than the costume section; stage makeup is much harder to describe than costumes, and I find it harder to pick up. I hope people will find this helpful anyway.
If you want to send in suggestions, please do--but please realize that I won't post specific names or catalog numbers for street makeup (Revlon, Maybelline, etc.). They just change too fast and I can't keep them updated. If you want to discuss specific shades, you may find the rhpscostumes page of LiveJournal helpful. More info can be found on the links page.


Last updated: 6/13/07

GENERAL MAKEUP HINTS

Most of your makeup will probably be from drugstores, at least at first, though stage makeup is great. (You don't have to worry about what's in style, and it's designed for what we're doing in it--being a specific color, going on easily, staying put, and looking reasonable under hot lights while the wearer jumps around.) Stage makeup can be found in magic and theatrical shops. Stage makeup also offers some options you don't have with street makeup, such as pots or lipstick-like sticks of basic colors (blue, for example, which can be handy for floorshow). The problem with stage makeup is that it's a lot more expensive than the cheap stuff, and if you aren't near a good source, there is often a hefty minimum order if you get it on-line.

When using nontheatrical makeup, I have (mostly) sworn off the cheap stuff. The colors are generally more garish (which is good), and I'm cheap, but there seems to be more wax than color in much of it. Try a couple of brands and see what works for you. I've had good luck at Sally's Beauty Supply, especially their Beautique eyepencils, which are reasonably dark, easy on your eyelids, and keep a fairly good point. On the other hand, their nail polish is crap.

I really don't recommend using Halloween makeup (you know, the stuff that appears at the discount store once a year). It's usually of very cheap quality. I do know people who can apply the water-based white-in-a-tube evenly without it streaking, but I sure can't. (And it sweats off easily, too.)

Have everyone buy their own makeup; it's easier in the long run and is more hygienic. People who don't usually wear makeup may need help applying it at first. I keep my Rocky and non-Rocky makeup separate; that way if I need something at the show I know it will be in my bag.


Miscellaneous Tips:

  • Look at as many pictures as you can. Following the suggestions here is pointless if you don't look like your character on-screen.
  • Your local library may be helpful. Stage makeup books are expensive; the library can afford them. (University libraries are particularly helpful.) Traditional "beauty" books on makeup/cosmetics can also be helpful. Older cosmetology books and theater books are good sources for information on wigs.
  • Stain Stick will take lipstick stains off lamé (Frank's cape; the spacesuits). I've also had good luck with Shout Gel, though it's a bit messier to apply.
  • Before applying your foundation, apply skin cream to your face. Let it soak in 30 seconds, then wipe off. The skin cream soaks into your face so the foundation won't, which means your color will stay more even. It will also help hydrate any dry spots on your face, which otherwise will look flaky and icky when you apply foundation to them. An actor friend recommended applying an astringent instead, which closes the pores...I have tried applying astringent, then applying the skin cream, which works pretty well.
  • A few words on clown white.
    Most beginning performers have a lot of trouble with white. A few suggestions:
    • Don't use too much white, especially if you are a Riff, Magenta or Columbia. (Franks often over-white too.) It is really easy to over-white, and it is one of the most common beginner's mistakes. Of all the characters, Columbia is naturally the palest, while Magenta is made up to have the palest face. Frank is the next palest, and Riff Raff is pale, but not so much white as he is just ill-looking. A lot of Frank's "whiteness" comes from white highlights on his chin and above his cheekbones. You can use white eyeshadow. Also, if your foundation is white, how are you gonna apply highlights?
    • Do not apply white below the jawbone or chin. It will weaken your jawline.
  • Clown white or foundation?
    I've had several people write me suggesting using very pale foundation instead of white. I had a lot of trouble finding a foundation light enough (I play Magenta), but have finally switched over. When I did one half of my face with the foundation and half with the white, I preferred the white, lightly applied, but I've had trouble since with the lights at a new theater making me look like a ghost. (The other Magenta, who used street makeup, looked fine.) I think this is a matter of personal preference, combined with the lighting setup in your theater. It's possible to look good using clown white...but it's really easy to overdo it.
  • Remember: dark objects (contours) seem to recede, light ones (highlights) seem to protrude.
  • When you do your eyebrows, draw in little tiny strokes in the direction of hair growth (unless, of course, you are Columbia or Frank). If you just color in the shape you want, you risk looking like Groucho Marx. If you can, use a pencil designed for eyebrows instead of an eyeliner--there is more wax in an eyebrow pencil, so it holds a tip better and smudges less. Ben Nye and Winks both do a nice eyebrow pencil.
  • After applying your foundation/contours/highlights, powder using a powder puff. (After dusting the puff with powder, fold it in half over the powder to work it in, then dust over the face.) Be generous (and consider covering your costume with something so you won't get powder on it). Let the powder sit for a few minutes, then brush off the excess. This helps set your makeup so it won't sweat off. I prefer not to apply powder over precise or brightly colored makeup, like lined eyebrows or garish eye makeup; it washes them out.
    I also powder my lips after blotting my lipstick (apply, blot, powder, apply, blot, apply)...it gives it great staying power.
    Some people use regular talcum powder, or baby powder. Others swear by cornstarch, but I find it lumps. I use theatrical talcum ("translucent") powder, sold at theatrical shops. I'm told it's ground finer. I do recommend buying translucent powder at least once and saving the shaker jar; it's much easier to apply just a little powder with a shaker designed for people powdering their faces instead of a whole baby bottom. You'll get more powder on your face and less on your costume. I like Ben Nye Neutral Set; I've tried Mehron's Colorset Powder and the particles are more globular; they roll right off the powder puff.
  • Always blend makeup. Yes, the audience is usually seated some distance from where you're performing. That's no excuse.
  • Apply makeup from the top down after you apply your foundation and any shading/highlights. This minimizes your chances of ruining your makeup if something smears/drips/etc. I read a handy tip in a Mary Quant makeup book for keeping makeup neat: before applying eye makeup, dust underneath the eyes with talc. Any color that falls from the eyes during application will fall on the talc, which can then be brushed away.
  • I recommend lipliner; it helps make your lip shape more precise and is particularly helpful if you are creating a lipline different than your natural one. I use lipstick straight out of the tube; I have tried a lipbrush and just don't have the control I want.
  • Tips for applying liquid eyeliner: Liquid eyeliner will usually give you a darker line than eyepencils but is harder to apply. The first time I used it, I had a lot of trouble, so here are some hints. Eyeliner is available with either a brush or a pen applicator. The pen is supposed to be easier to use; I haven't tried it. When using liquid eyeliner, steady your hand by resting your elbow on something solid. I find it helps to keep the line as close to the eye as possible. I just line the lower eyes in liquid and use a pencil on the upper lid. I tried outlining further out from the eye to make my eyes look larger, but the liner always seemed to bleed into a crease beneath my eyes. (This may not be a problem if you're younger). I found this was most likely to happen when I looked down right after applying the liner; try looking straight ahead only until the liner dries. I recently tested Maybelline eyeliner against Ben Nye and was astonished at the difference in staying power.
  • Applying lipgloss over lipstick is tricky; I never got lipstick on my teeth until I tried using lipgloss. (If anyone can recommend a lipgloss that doesn't cause this problem, I'd love to hear about it.) I have tried those new sealers for lipstick and had difficulties. You're essentially applying a thin layer of plastic over the lipstick, and the plastic layer kept balling up on me instead of staying put in a smooth layer. I use Mehron's Lip Rouge in Light now; it doesn't get on my teeth but it isn't very glossy either, and I think it makes the lipstick come off more quickly.
  • I think it's worth the extra money to buy an eyepencil sharpener with a reservoir to catch the shavings. Most which do also have a little pick to clean the sharpener, which is handy. I've bought the type without reservoirs and picks, and ended up with eyepencil on other things in my makeup bag, and bits of eyepencil under my nails from trying to clean the sharpener.

  • Some Personal Recommendations:

    I'm not usually a very brand-conscious person, but over the years I have found a couple of brands of makeup that I like. I mostly use stage makeup now, except for rouge/countour powder, eyeshadow and foundation. Your preferences may well be different from mine.


    MAKEUP FOR EACH CHARACTER:

    FRANK:

    Click here for a simplified, generalized makeup plan for Frank (many thanks to Kelly McKivor). If you want makeup scene by scene instead, we suggest you get out your DVD player and go frame by frame. You can take a look at a few makeup pictures here.

    Frank Sweet T:

    Frank Floor Show:

    Amazingly enough, some Franks have time not only to change costume but to apply additional lipstick and eyeshadow for this scene.


    JANET:

    Makeup pictures are here.

    Janet Floor Show:


    BRAD:

    None til floor show. Draw in sideburns with a black eyepencil if you need to.

    Brad Floor Show:


    RIFF:

    Click here for a simplified, generalized makeup plan for Riff (many thanks to Melanie La France). You can find makeup photos here.


    MAGENTA:

    Click here for a simplified, generalized makeup plan for Magenta (many thanks to Melanie La France). You can find makeup photos here.

    Space Scene:


    COLUMBIA:

    Click here for a simplified, generalized makeup plan for Columbia (many thanks to Melanie La France, with input from Mina Smith and Saffron Shearer-Gare). You can find makeup photos here.

    Touch Toucha:

    Columbia wipes off her rouge, eyebrows, and her beauty mark before Toucha Toucha.

    Columbia Floor Show:


    ROCKY:

    Rocky Floor Show:


    EDDIE:

    Tattoos:


    DR. SCOTT:


    CRIM:

    The following (slightly edited) comments are from Zenin, who won the Crim division of the costume contest at the 20th anniversary:

    Ben Nye makes a great old age starter kit for something around $20. It's got almost all the makeup one needs and pretty decent instuctions.

    Throw away the gray hair stuff they give you though, it's useless for stage (for film it's ok, but you really have to know how to use it). Instead, get yourself the biggest bottle of Ben Nye "snow white" you can find. It's great stuff. By far the cheapest way to gray your hair, and it looks the best once you've had some practice. That's the hard part though, it takes more skill to use than hair spray white. Put it on first, and then use it to help hold your hair in place when you style it. Have a water spray bottle nearby in case it sets too fast. Spray the whole thing down with hair spray once you're done.

    Do the dark shadow before you do the light, even if the instructions tell you otherwise.

    Use thin lines when using the darker eye shadow and blend them out. Wrinkle each part of your face as you use it and let your natural cracks be your guide by running your thin brush down the center of them and maybe a little (1/4") beyond.

    For the light shadow, use a large brush and while wrinkling your face again run it over the tops of your wrinkles. Don't worry too much about the light as it mostly blends in too much to be noticed anyway. Your real shaping power is still in the dark shadow.

    Remember, light normally comes from above. Shade the undersides more then the tops of wrinkles and other features. If it helps, put a desk lamp in front of you at a 45 degree angle over your head and look at the shadows for a guide.

    And practice! Old age, at least good old age, makeup is one of the hardest to do well. Don't worry so much about what it looks like up close; remember you are on stage. Step back at least five or so feet from the mirror when judging it. Overdo the depth of the wrinkles as they will look much milder from the house. If you are in a show with good lighting (non-flashlight, pro spot light or better) then this goes double as all your work will just be washed out otherwise. A bright light can make a 70 year old man look 12. I once was a lighting designer for a living; trust me, I know this from experience. If the light comes from directly in front of you (eg, most spot lights at Rocky) then this is even more important.

    Return to the Costume List Index